2007 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewachs

The Bassermann-Jordan 2007 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewachs exudes musky, narcissus-like and chamomile floral notes mingled with hints of herbs. It comes to the palate plush and glossy, with pear and peach fruit wreathed in flowers and herbs and tinged with pear pip and peach kernel; then finishes with intensity yet refinement, surely set to remain fascinating and delicious for at least 10-12 years. General Manager Gunter Hauck thinks wine maker and vineyard manager Ulrich Mell and the Bassermann-Jordan estate had their greatest aesthetic as well as commercial success yet in 2007. This includes their nearly 26,000 bottles – sold almost entirely by subscription – of seven Grosse Gewache, only three of which they enabled me to taste. (And the estate’s dry wines seem to be virtually absent from the U.S. market.) On the strength of my experience, this is indeed a strong collection at the dry end, although I continue to run counter to the grain of at least most German wine writers in finding the Bassermann-Jordan sweet wines (harvested this vintage already in late September and early October) marginally less impressive and at times overwhelmed by their sheer sweetness, rather than possessing precisely the clarity, elegance, and subtlety that are generally among the strong points of the estate’s dry Rieslings. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. 918 622 0424

Muted, hint of sulphur, quite spirity; on the palate as successful combination of creamy texture, full body and earthy fruit; just-in-time acidity. (MS)

Runny honey, golden syrup, then a bitter sharpness that lifts the back palate and maintains the lengthy finish. Certainly in its infancy, with focused core flavours showing lots of potential. (RH)