2017 Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg

Limpid yellow-gold. Mineral-accented aromas of dried pear, lemon pith, succulent herbs and honey are given spicy lift by a gingery nuance. Chewy and sharply focused on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors and hints of chamomile and anise. The mineral note comes back strong on an impressively long, penetrating finish that shows fine definition and solid thrust. (JR)

Brought up just like the Crozes Hermitage Blanc, the 2017 Hermitage Le Chevalier De Sterimberg Blanc is a slightly more Marsanne-dominated effort that offers more minerality and well as reserved notes of spice citrus, crushed rocks, and hints of tangerine. Ultra-pure, seamless, and silky on the palate, it has a beautiful mid-palate as well as a great finish. Purity, freshness, and focus are the buzzwords here. The big news at this benchmark estate is the loss of winemaker Jacques Desvernois to Domaine Guigal. At the time of my tasting with Caroline Frey, there was no replacement, so it will be interesting to see who comes on board. They will certainly have big shoes to fill. Nevertheless, the estate has been on an incredible roll, with their sensational 2015s last year, and now two strong vintages with their 2016s and 2017s.

Jaboulet's 2017 Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg is approximately two-thirds Marsanne and one-third Roussanne. Subtle notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings frame honey, pineapple and baking spices, all wrapped around a tensile core of tangerine and lime. In a year when no La Chapelle Blanc is being made, this is the top white Hermitage from Jaboulet, and it's a beauty, with a silky texture and a long, mouthwatering finish.