2015 Bourgogne Aligote
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Tasting notes
The 2015 Bourgogne Aligoté Sous Chatelet from Domaine d’Auvenay is off the bloomin’ charts. On the first sip, half-laughing with incredulity, I commented: “How does Lalou do it?” There is just no Aligoté that comes close. This sports the same reduction that I found on the 2011 a few months earlier, stuck match notes, crushed limestone at first, then an hour later, that heavenly freshly-baked popcorn scent with otherworldly definition. The palate has gobsmacking intensity, razor-sharp acidity, a laser-like focus and subtle notes of brioche and white peach. For sure, the secondary market price is completely insane, but you cannot deny that this is sui generis. From notionally the “lowest” rung on the Burgundy ladder (please note speech commas before sending off any complaints), we leapt notionally the highest (ditto).
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2015 Bourgogne Aligoté from Domaine d'Auvenay reveals immense potential, wafting from the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, citrus zest and a light framing of noble reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, tense and textural, with huge concentration and a lingering, intensely stony finish. Bize-Leroy observes that its pH is extremely low, adding that in Burgundy, "cépage doesn't matter, it's the terroir that counts." I suspect serving this wine blind in ten years time will support that contention.