2018 Ermitage Blanc de l'Oree

Full bottle 1,392 g. Certified organic and biodynamic. 100% 60 to 70 year-old Marsanne grown on very old fluvioglacial alluvial deposits. Cold settled after pressing. Half is vinified in 600-litre wooden casks with regular lees stirring for six months and the rest in vats. Total ageing is between 10 and 12 months. If ever you seek a white wine to drink at room temperature with boudin noir, this is it. Bullseye! Stunning arrray of waxy flavours including honey, (good) furniture polish, green leaves with a powerful, pungent undertow. Fairly low acidity but that doesn't matter when you have so many other distractions. Extremely long and already a massive pleasure. I can;t see the point of chilling this - although I have to admit that th edergs of Ermitage Le Méal 2018 from the fridge taste pretty good too... Very long indeed and hugely distinctive. A vindictaion of old vines and biodynamics? As well as of the hill of Hermitage of course. (JR)

Brilliant straw-gold. Powerful, mineral-accented orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by lemon curd, iodine and pungent floral accents. Intense, palate-staining pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors show superb concentration. Definition and a sexy floral nuance build through the mid-palate. Opens up steadily on an extremely long, floral-tinged finish that emphatically echoes the pit fruit and mineral notes.

Leading off the single vineyard Hermitage whites, the 2018 Ermitage De L’Orée is all Marsanne, from the Les Murets lieu-dit, brought up mostly in used demi-muids. Orange blossom, crushed citrus, spice box, white flowers, beautiful minerality, and vivid charcoal notes emerge from the glass of this beautiful, concentrated, opulent Hermitage, which has a stacked mid-palate and a level of structure fitting for a red wine. It's a brilliant wine that's going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for 20+. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.