2016 Camarcanda

One of my favorites in this vertical tasting, the 2016 Ca' Marcanda is full of layered complexity and depth in its unfolding aromatics of Mediterranean herbs, pure kirsch, wooded earth, graphite, lavender, and black pepper. The palate is dry and full, with a persistent linear edge that brings energy and tension. It has well-managed tannins and gorgeous fruit of black raspberry as well as the classic stamp of salinity that is a hallmark for all these wines. I absolutely love the 2016, and it will be a pleasure to revisit it over the next two decades. Drink 2024-2044. When the Gaja family purchased their Bolgheri property in 1996, it was home to 10 hectares of vines planted to Sangiovese and Trebbiano. The rest of the land was dedicated to olive trees, peach trees, and cereal grains. Angelo Gaja was drawn to the region by several factors, including the small size of the region, which was always something he looked for when seeking out denominations outside of their Piedmont home. The Bolgheri DOC had recently been established in 1994 with only 1300 hectares in total. A very different region from Piedmont, Bolgheri has historically been land owned by noble people whereas Piedmont was a region of farmers. Thus, the Tuscans were more connected to international travel, and you find people with international names and sensibilities. Other differences include the incredibly varied soils, with 27 different types identified due to the erosion from the Colline Metalifere. Additionally, constant winds come through the region that help both with ventilation and temperature control of the vines. My tasting occurred at the Bolgheri winery in November of 2022, alongside Gaia Gaja, who has been instrumental in working alongside her siblings and their father across the properties. Whether it is in the vineyard or in the winery, the family and the team at Ca' Marcanda are consistently evolving to raise the bar with a measured and steady hand.

Here's a rather unexpected surprise. Given my excellent first impressions when I tasted this wine four years ago, I expected the Ca' Marcanda 2016 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda to steal the show in this vertical. In fact, the wine is currently in an awkward stage during its transition from full primary fruit to tertiary notes. Those aged aromas recall dried current, spice and grilled herb. They serve to underline the dusty tannins and dry sensations you get on the finish. In all, this wine is moving away from its fruit faster than expected. I wonder what will happen during the next 10 years of its evolution: Will the fruit fade or flesh-out further?

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Deepish crimson. Pure, intense Cabernet aroma of lively cassis fruit and just a touch of dark-red fruit to lift the aroma. Intense, chewy, deep and yet so smooth. The tannins are super-polished so that although the fruit is only just starting to lose its primary dimension, the tannins make it already approachable. Darker and more savoury on the palate. Elegant and long. (JH)