2017 Crozes Hermitage Thalabert

Inky ruby. Smoke-accented cherry and dark berries on the deeply perfumed nose, which takes on olive and baking spice nuances with air. Smooth, concentrated and appealingly sweet, offering plush boysenberry, cherry and singed plum flavors and a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Finishes broad, sweet and long, with harmonious tannins and repeating spiciness.

This terroir always delivers a wild, opulent, gamey style of wine, and the 2017 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert doesn’t disappoint. Loads of chocolaty black fruits, ground pepper, truffle, and smoked game, as well as a hint of black olives, emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a rocking texture, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It’s a classic example of this wine and terroir. Drink it over the coming 15 years or so. Readers who love older vintages of Jaboulet’s flagship Hermitage La Chapelle should be happy with how owner Caroline Frey has managed this domaine since taking over in 2006. She has singlehandedly brought this estate back to its former glory, particularly with their Hermitage releases. Their second wine today, the Maison Bleue, is unquestionably a better wine than many past vintages of their flagship La Chapelle, and I suspect will age even longer.

Marked by scents of licorice, plum and cassis, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is a full-bodied effort (although less full than the 2018), with a fine sense of balance, a crisp finish and slightly drying tannins.