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Tasting notes
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is darker in color, much more fruit-forward and less terroir-driven than its peers, though it is very pure, offering black cherries, raspberry confit and plenty of blue fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, almost saturated tannins and a mélange of red and blueberry fruit. Quintessential Bonnes-Mares, with a judicious lushness toward the finish. Very fine, but not best in show. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
Critic scores
Average Score
The Wine Advocate
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a complex bouquet that is slightly more Musigny in personality than I expected. There is mainly dark fruit here, mixed with potpourri and incense and becoming more flamboyant as it aerates in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and quite compact in style because, as François Millet noted, these 2017s are beginning to close down. But there is certainly good density here, and an enticing tensile finish.
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a not dissimilar bouquet to the Les Amoureuses, though here there is slightly more red fruit and perhaps a heightened sense of Pinoté. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grippy tannin, good backbone (as usual) and a saline influence that becomes more accentuated toward the fresh finish. This feels a little tight-lipped at the moment compared to others tasted from barrel, but it also feels persistent and, for want of a better word, enigmatic.
About the producer
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is one of Burgundy’s most revered domaines, defined by its historic stewardship of Musigny and its refined, age-worthy Chambolle-Musigny. Its wines are benchmarks for collectors seeking grand cru pedigree over power.