2017 Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
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The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 1er Cru has a very perfumed bouquet of brambly red berry fruit infused with pressed rose petal; touches of flint and bay leaf emerge with time. It seems to retract a little with aeration rather than expand. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and quite linear in style, featuring a liberal sprinkling of white pepper and clove toward the finish.
The weight is here and impressive for the vintage. Blackberries and red currants with hints of rose stems and lemon zest on the nose. Full-bodied and layered, it rolls over the palate with lots of fruit and ripe tannins for the vintage. Drink after 2022.
Just below Bonnes Mares, the side that gives more structure. Cask sample. Mid crimson. Dusty and peppery on the nose. More dark-fruited and restrained than the Grands Échezeaux. Really beautifully structured and all tied up with itself. Reserved, elegant and perfectly proportioned. Long, so long, and beautifully dry. Fabulous without trying to seduce. (JH)
About the producer
Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest and most famous producers in Burgundy, making both domaine and négociant wines. It remains family-owned and run, now in the hands of the fourth generation.