2017 Condrieu Coteaux de Vernon

First produced in the early 1950s, the flagship 2017 Condrieu Coteau De Vernon is vinified and aged all in barrels, with 25% being new in 2017. Christine commented that the 2018 only saw 15% new French oak, so the élevage varies slightly by the vintage. This beauty is also fresh and vibrant, while still showing the sunny warmth of the vintage. Ripe citrus, orange zest, white flowers, exotic spices, and a hint of wet stone all define the bouquet. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, has beautiful purity of fruit, a seamless texture, and is just overflowing with character. Both 2017 and 2018 were scorchers for the Northern Rhône, which can be difficult for Condrieu, yet Christine Vernay has done a brilliant job in both vintages. These wines show plenty of richness and depth yet hold onto a terrific sense of purity and freshness.

The 2017 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon comes across as more similar stylistically to the 2015 than to the 2016. It has explosive floral and tropical fruit aromas but then seems tight, citrusy and crisp, with some resiny-oaky notes on the medium to full-bodied palate. It's the rare Condrieu that (at least in this vintage) needs a year or two to come into its own, but it should drink well through at least 2025.

Aromas of ginger bread, spiced peach biscuits and apricots abound here and lead to a palate that has such impressive concentration of rich apricots and peaches. The pithy, deep, structural drive really sets this apart. Drink or hold.