2017 Clos St Denis
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Tasting notes
Unusually, in 2017, the winemaker Benoit picked the Grand Crus first. A hailstorm in July knocked out about 20% of his Grand Cru yield which he describes as a “natural green harvest”. He believes this 20% loss was a huge benefit to the vintage, creating a distinct increase in quality in terms of concentration on the final crop. For Benoit the balance and ripeness levels in his 2017s were perfect. Made from two separate plots with a significant part situated on the higher slope of the vineyard where there is a lot less topsoil results in a tremendous mouth-watering acidity and mineral power. There is also a fine elegant silky suppleness and concentration to the black cherry, blackberry pastille fruit, as well as complex aromas of smoky aromatic tea and dark chocolate. Long length, great freshness. Powerful stuff!
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Barrel sample. ‘Positive hail’ because it was like nature’s green harvest. 30% whole bunch. 40% new oak. 1.49 ha (3.7 acres). He is the biggest owner of the 6.3 ha (15.7 acres) grand cru. 45- to 70-year-old vines, always blended. Mid crimson. Dark fruited and spicy, balanced by a lifted stemmy freshness. Chewy but fine-boned tannins, really dry and has elegance in a whole-bunch style. Aromatic and with a dry chalky texture on the mid palate that increases the freshness. Has both delicacy in the texture and power in the length. Difficult to describe. Winemaker Benoît Stehly finds blood orange in this wine and I agree when he suggests it. Lovely subtle aromas. (JH)
About the producer
Domaine Georges Lignier has a long history stretching back to the 20th century. Georges – a cousin to Hubert Lignier – set out to establish the finest and most important domaine in Morey-Saint-Denis.