2017 Oberhauser Brucke Auslese GK

Haunting, intense scents and luscious palate presence of very ripe pear and quince glazed with red raspberry jelly present an intensification of the characteristics harbored by the corresponding Spätlese. At the same time, there is a flower shop-like mingling of greenery and blossoms that not only adds intrigue but also helps coolingly steer the wine away from any impression of over-ripeness. The feel is glossy, subtly creamy, and the wine’s high acidity is subtly experienced as juicy fresh lime, but more prominently in the sense of animation and the way in which residual sugar is held in check. The superbly-sustained finish delivers wafting, almost ethereal floral essences, rich fruit, and a mouthwatering abundance of salt. “We went through the vineyard at least three times and had to throw a lot away in order to arrive at this little bit of Auslese,” reports Dönnhoff, “but it’s not primarily a botrytis Auslese; rather it reflects grapes of high-ripeness so far advanced that they wouldn’t have worked at all for dry wine. Often we need to harvest for Auslese or even Spätlese early-on,” he adds, striking a familiar theme, “because that’s often when there is the purest botrytis, and because we need to have ample acidity for balance. But in the case of this 2017, you could say that it was picked out more or less in the middle of harvest.”

RS 108 g/l. Smells more tangy than the Hermannshöhle Auslese Goldkapsel and tastes sweeter even though the residual sugar is slightly lower. Rich, intense and so concentrated. Very, very long. Wait. (JH)