2017 Batard Montrachet

The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with a reticent bouquet of lemon rind, citrus, hazelnut cream, white flowers and mandarin oil. On the palate, it's full-bodied, both denser and blockier than the Bienvenues-Bâtard, with exceptional concentration, tangy acids and a long finish. Today, the wine is only partially formed, but it's immensely promising. Pierre Vincent told me that it attained 12.8% natural alcohol, but despite that rather modest degree for a grand cru white Burgundy, it displays plenty of power and substance.

1.8 ha (4.4 acres) of vines more than 40 years old. Racked to tank just before the 2018 harvest. 25% new oak on the grands crus. Riper fruit profile here compared with the Bienvenues, more expressive. Both richer and higher in acidity so the whole is more accentuated and not as integrated yet. The oak is subtle and perfectly judged as spice. Soaring glory, tight in the middle and long on the stony, mouth-watering finish. (JH)

Pale yellow. Less expressive on the nose than the Bienvenue, conveying a honeyed ripeness and a hint of resiny oak. Then tightly clenched in the mouth, with a penetrating orange juice flavor dominating. Not at all a fat wine, this is hard to taste today and needs time to expand. Its power suggests that it will evolve slowly.