1994 Graham Single Harvest Tawny

The 1994 Single Harvest Tawny from Graham’s is a selection of 19 from 139 barrels in their reserves, from Quinta dos Malvedos (the others “not ready,” according to Paul Symington). It has a deep mahogany hue. The bouquet is quite strict, presenting layers of quince, marmalade, dried fig and just a touch of camphor; this is certainly a Tawny that I would decant. The palate is well balanced, offering dark berry fruit mixed with dried fig, clove, mint and Provençal herbs, and quite stocky towards the finish, which delivers satisfying persistence, if not the class of the Vintage Port this year. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London.

This was chosen to contrast with the 1994 vintage port. The Symingtons bottle to order. From 139 pipes, Charles chose 19 for this bottling, a barrel by barrel choice. 1,361 cases bottled; the other barrels not yet ready. Best to drink this sort of port within a year or so of bottling. The bottling date is on the label. Paleish tawny. Very sweet and almondy. Firm and with a chewiness on the end. Not quite as smooth and charming as the 20 year olds. Juicy with a lightly vegetal streak. (JR)

The 1994 Single Harvest Tawny Port (that's called a "Colheita" traditionally, but some producers have decided to translate) is a field blend bottled in May 2018 with a bar-top cork and 124 grams of residual sugar. Showing lots of power and plenty of depth, this is a radically different style than the Otima (Warre's) this issue. Intense, deep and packed with fruit, it lingers forever on the finish in the way a great tawny should—and this is a great tawny, flavorful, structured and deep. Not even 30 years old yet, it seems to be an overachiever for its relatively young age. For historical interest, this is one of the first Colheitas that winemaker Charles Symington made. He seemed to be a proud father when I tasted it.