2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire

A blend of 80% Grenache (from the Farguerol vineyard), 8% Syrah and 12% Mourvedre, the 2000 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire offers up perfumed notes of spice, leather and meat that are mixed with subtle garrigue, underbrush and kirsch fruit. In the mouth, the wine is full bodied with a fat, unctuous texture, low acidity, sweet fruit and a blockbuster finish. While still young, this is drinking extremely well.

The heady 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire is more evolved than either the 2001 or 1998. Extremely full-bodied, with low acidity, and a knock-out bouquet of blackberry and cherry jam intermixed with licorice, pepper, and dried Provencal herbs, this sexy, voluptuous, enormously concentrated 2000 possesses a huge, silky, seamless finish. Drink this irresistible effort now and over the next 12-15 years. The Cuvee Centenaire is one of the world's most compelling red wines. It is produced primarily from a plot of ancient (planted in 1889) Grenache vines (80% of the blend), and the rest younger vine Syrah (8%) and Mourvedre (12%), all aged 18 months in oak casks. It is tempting to say this is a modern-styled Chateauneuf du Pape. The use of barriques puts it in that category, but there is no noticeable new oak. This wine sucks up the oak like a sponge, but the wood provides structure and delineation. The Centenaire has been produced in 1989, 1990, 1995, 1998, 2000, and 2001. My personal favorites are the 1998 and 1990, but the 1989 still has not hit full maturity. Moreover, the 2000 and 2001 are both prodigious efforts. Life's too short not to experience at least one bottle of Andre Brunel's Cuvee Centenaire! Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Full ruby-red. Multidimensional nose combines black and red raspberry, mocha, roast coffee, meat and sexy oak tones; very ripe and suave. Thick, superripe and liqueur-like, with exceptional depth of flavor and palate-saturating richness. Already offers great inner-mouth perfume, with complex notes of fruit, game and torrefaction. Best of all on the ripely tannic, reverberating aftertaste. (My sample of this estate's regular cuvee also revealed a flamboyantly aromatic, superconcentrated wine in the making but was distinctly low in SO2 and could not be judged with any degree of accuracy; I'll wait for the chance to taste the finished wine next year.)