2010 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Saturated medium ruby; the darkest wine to this point. Very pure but tight aromas of blackberry, black cherry, licorice and violet. Sappy, savory and hugely concentrated, displaying remarkable depth of texture to its classically dry, rich flavors of dark fruits, crushed rock, espresso, violet and subtle herbs. Delivers an uncanny combination of fine-grained texture, thickness and inner-mouth energy. Like so many 2010 Napa Cabernets, this wine is as much about soil and savory mineral tones as it is about primary fruit. Wonderfully concentrated, dense, tactile wine, but very unevolved today. The firm, broad tannins are perfectly buffered by material, spreading out to coat the front teeth and upper lips. Not at all a sweet style; in fact, the wine's salinity adds another dimension. With its healthy acidity and great palate-staining length, this splendid Cabernet really calls for another decade in the cellar. It may have an aging curve like a top vintage of Château Latour. (13.9% alcohol)

There's not much to say about Randy Dunn's 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain that I haven't already said or written. A classic Howell Mountain Cabernet, the 2010 hits the palate with scents of graphite, pencil shavings, inky blue/purplish fruit, sage and spices, all backed up with swaths of broad yet impeccably balanced tannins. What a fascinating contrast it is to taste this next to David Abreu's Thorevilos as we round out the evening. The Dunn is powerful, structured and incisive, with magnificent expression of site and fabulous overall balance. Dunn’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain will go down as one of the great wines of this vintage. Readers have to be patient, but there is no question the 2010 is a real stunner. Knowing how hard it will be to wait, I expect the 2010 will start to open up around age ten.