2016 Chassagne Montrachet En Remilly

Musky rocky reduction and a hint of smoke on the nose. Initially savory, citrussy, dry and tight, showing less dimension than the Boudriotte, but aeration brought considerably more texture and breadth. Finishes with a touch of menthol, good length and an absence of rough edges. Still, the wine's flavors of lemon and spicy oak will need time to express themselves. Now that Bruno Colin has taken over the Rémilly vines of his father Michel, his half hectare represents about one-third of the total surface of this tiny premier cru.

Particularly well-exposed parcel in the southern extension of En Remilly near Chevalier-Montrachet. Just three barrels a year. They have just added the parents’ parcel from the middle of Chassagne, Puligny and St-Aubin. Two years ago they raised prices for this wine and Blanchots (next to Criots) in recognition of their special qualities – more like grands crus. Tank sample. Rich crème-pâtissiere nose. This does seem to have grand cru concentration – really quite spectacular. Great intensity but no heaviness. Massive energy. Very special wine with spectacular persistent and energy. (JR)

(Colin now has 0.5 hectare of vines in Remilly, or about one-third of the appellation, as he has taken over his father Michel's parcel; production in 2016 was limited to 35 hectoliters per hectare, but there was much less frost damage here than in Blanchots and Vergers): Lemon, menthol and smoky minerals on the nose and palate; very Chassagne-Montrachet! The fattest and most horizontal of these wines to this point but still salty and dry. Concentrated, rich and long, finishing with clinging salinity. Incidentally, Michel's vines were planted in 1989 while Bruno's are 55 years old.