2006 Barolo Big'd Big

The 2006 Barolo Big ‘d Big, from the south-facing Mosconi vineyard in Monforte, impresses for its massive richness and the sheer purity of its fruit. Personally, I am not a huge fan of the overt, in-your-face Baroli that emerge from this warm site, but there is not denying the Big – and what a great name that is – for its sensual, exuberant personality. This will be a fascinating wine to follow in the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Proprietor Rodolfo Migliorini has another set of gorgeous wines on his hands with these 2006 Baroli. A house style built on textural richness remains very much in evidence, but in recent years the overt oakiness the wines once showed has come down, allowing the estate’s vineyards to show more of their true and highly unique voices. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Good deep red. Musky tobacco, smoke and earth dominate the nose. Full, round and sweet, with a youthfully medicinal quality but plenty of inner-mouth aromatic character. Red fruits and mocha emerge nicely with aeration. The back end was initially a tad aggressive but quickly turned sweeter and more expansive, as this has plenty of stuffing to support its tannins. Finishes long and sweet, with excellent lift.

The 2006 Barolo Big ‘d Big, from the south-facing Mosconi vineyard in Monforte, impresses for its massive richness and the sheer purity of its fruit. Personally, I am not a huge fan of the overt, in-your-face Baroli that emerge from this warm site, but there is not denying the Big – and what a great name that is – for its sensual, exuberant personality. This will be a fascinating wine to follow in the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Dec 2010, www.robertparker.com