2012 Urziger Wurzgarten GG Reserve

Like its immediate "reserve" siblings, this was only bottled after 24 months in fuder and didn't fully convince me of its merits until I re-tasted it after more than a year in bottle and several hours' aeration. Site-typical fresh strawberry, kiwi and mingle in the nose with rarefied, high-toned suggestions of fruit distillate as well as mossy, alkaline and wet stone notes. The palate -- creamy, almost doughy, yet juicy -- is transparent to a corresponding set of nuances. Subtle salinity and zesty lime peel serve for saliva-inducement and invigoration in this beauty’s long finish. Like Ernst Loosen, I suspect that the late-bottling approach will enhance ageworthiness, but obviously no specific prognoses for these Grosses Gewächs Reserve bottlings can as yet be based on track record.

Here "reserve" denotes an additional 12 months (24 total) of aging on lees, which has delivered an extra silkiness, more completeness and a flawlessly smooth palate. The nose has more steeliness, more spice and less florals; lime and spiced apple, plus a mineral edge too. The palate has more pronounced acidity than the equivalent wine aged a year less. It lunges long into the finish, has a greater drive of lime citrus flavor. Very long, very pure, very good. Elegant yet powerful. Drink now and for a decade or more.