1979 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
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Tasting notes
A dark, deep red with amber hues, the 1979 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vecchie Vigne bursts from the glass. It displays a mature blend of brown spices, crushed rocks, animal musk and smoky dried cherries. This is so soft, textural and round in feel; the 1979 displays bright, energizing acidity. It’s only the inner earth tones and pronounced minerality that reveal its age, yet with a lingering core of citrus-laced currant that still resides. The 1979 leaves the palate surprisingly refreshed, hinting at soy and tobacco throughout its long and fully resolved finale. This is showing beautifully, but I get the sense that a decline is on the horizon.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Chiara, Emidio's granddaughter, says that 1979 was 'a very balanced year'. Bottle number 7,670. Just like the 1985 it has a surprisingly youthful appearance. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Same concentration and firmness on the nose as the 1985. Sweet, red fruit with a layer of savoury spice, leather, malt and iron notes on top. Lifted, and on the right side of volatile acidity. With aeration there are notes of undergrowth. Vibrant palate with polished, sandy tannins. Long, elegant and lifted. This has plateaued but is holding. The acidity and the touch of volatile acidity have probably made it indestructible. (WS)
The afternoon closed with three lovely wines from the 1960s and 1970s that are a testament to the longevity of the estate's wines. Though fully mature none of the wines appeared to be in a state of decline. The 1979 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is simply a drop-dead gorgeous wine. It offers nuances of leather, licorice and a delicate core of sweet fruit that blossoms onto the palate with extraordinary length and purity of expression. It is a joy to drink today and although it should last for another few years, it is a wine that is peaking today and is unlikely to improve much with further cellaring.
About the producer
Emidio Pepe is a star of the Abruzzo region and one of Italy’s most famous names. Worshipped by natural-wine lovers for its low-intervention approach, this estate makes category-defying, age-worthy examples of Montepulciano, Trebbiano and Cerasolo d’Abruzzo, as well as Pecorino Colli Aprutini.