2016 Cockburn

The 2016 Vintage Port, bottled in May 2018, is a blend of 62% Touriga Nacional, 21% Touriga Franca and small portions of Sousão and Alicante Bouschet. It comes in with 106 grams of residual sugar. Fairly intense and even tighter than Graham's, this might be somewhat approachable in a few years, but it really needs to open up. It will require more time than the wines like Warre's and Smith Woodhouse in the Symington stable. Beautifully wrought, this looks like an impressive Cockburn's, more balanced and fresher than the stolid and jammy 2015 yet still with fine concentration to go with the freshness. There were 2,450 cases produced.

The 2016 Cockburn’s, which comes mainly from the Bico de Pato vineyard, is deep in colour, perhaps more so than other vintages of this Port encountered during previous declaration tastings. The nose is tight at first, almost Bordeaux-like with blackberry, raspberry coulis, touches of inkwell and cassis. There is admirable purity here. The palate is beautifully balanced with supple tannin, a wonderful line of acidity and immense harmony. There is presence but not weight, a silky smooth finish with hints of raisin and fig that linger tenderly in the mouth. What a marvellous Cockburn’s! Production is 2,450 cases.

The Douro Superior port shipper rescued by the Symingtons from its multinational phase in December 2010. The principal source is the 97-ha vineyard at Quinta dos Canais and, even further east, the 13-ha vineyard at Quinta do Vale Coelho. Dark crimson with a mere hint of ruby at the rim. Lifted and silky. This immediately makes a claim to be a top-drawer wine on the nose. Very round with a savoury, herbal, dry finish but absolutely gorgeously sweet and fresh on the palate. Just a little heat on the end but this is a very convincing sign that Cockburn is back on form, even if it may not be one of the longest living, (JR)