2013 Gattinara Vigna Molsino

The Molsino vineyard was planted in 1992 and enjoys a protected position at the heart of a little amphitheater of hills. It is planted at about 400 meters above sea level, but the daytime heat and sunshine settles softly into this unique vineyard basin. The 2013 Gattinara Vigna Molsino shows power, firmness and finesse. These traits suggest that it needs a little more bottle age to further its evolution. Of the two vineyard selections, this wine is probably the most cellar worthy. The bouquet shows tight aromas of cassis, spice and campfire ash. Although Roberto Conterno promises that he will not change the Nervi house style, it will be fascinating to taste this wine in a few years, when it is under the full tutelage of the maker of Monfortino. One thing must be said for both Monfortino and Molsino—these wines benefit from first rate quality of fruit. May 2018, www.robertparker.com