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Tasting notes
The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is surprisingly discrete and understated on the nose, precise mineral-rich black fruit mixed with orange zest and iodine, gradually opening up with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a sorbet-like freshness on the entry, more red fruit here, cranberry, kirsch, raspberry coulis mixed with hints of fig and white pepper that lead to a spicy but quite strict finish. Tasted at the Domaine.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
(30% new oak; production was down by two-thirds owing to the frost): Briary red fruits and black cherry on the nose, along with some subtle spicy oak notes; showing less of this wine's normal blueberry and mineral aromas. Fairly smooth but tight, conveying an impression of slightly green acidity to the complex flavors of medicinal dark cherry, herbs, peony, lilac, licorice and menthol. The most tannic of these 2016s to this point and a bit lacking in give. Finishes with dark fruits and a repeating note of menthol. Hard to assess at this stage of its evolution in barrel.
The 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was 70% affected by the frost, though François explained that the north side was spared the damage. It offers slightly darker fruit on the nose compared to the Les Amoureuses: blackcurrant, tobacco, sage and in the background a touch of flint and violet petal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin, though not quite as supple as the Les Amoureuses. I admire the symmetry here: a detailed and linear Bonnes Mares with impressive mineralité on the finish that lingers 45 to 60 seconds after the wine has departed.
South-east corner, downslope, so all terres rouges/red clay. (The Morey-St-Denis side has more structure.) Quite different from the other wines at this domaine with a deeper purple colour and really firm, savoury nose. More earth-bound, less ethereal. Hint of vegetal – by which I don’t mean unripe. Broad on the palate. Less tense and more brutal. Needs a lot of time. Lots to chew on on the finish. (JR)
About the producer
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is one of Burgundy’s most revered domaines, defined by its historic stewardship of Musigny and its refined, age-worthy Chambolle-Musigny. Its wines are benchmarks for collectors seeking grand cru pedigree over power.