2017 Cote Rotie La Mordoree

Deep purple-colored, the 2017 Côte Rôtie La Mordorée (a mix from the La Côte Brune and the Côte Blonde lieux-dits) is another incredibly concentrated, yet elegant and ethereal wine from Chapoutier. Rock star levels of kirsch, black raspberries, spring flowers, smoked game, tapenade, and graphite give way to a full-bodied, rounded, straight-up sensationally textured Côte Rôtie. It has the opulence to drink well now yet will keep for two decades or more. 249 cases. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.

A blend of Côte Blonde and Côte Brune (the actual lieux-dits), the 2017 Cote Rotie la Mordorée is a top-notch example of this cuvée. The Chapoutier team now picks and vinifies the parcels separately, which has allowed them to fine-tune the picking dates. It boasts an exciting mélange of berry fruit flavors, is silky and medium to full-bodied in the mouth and finishes long.

There’s a deep, dark-stone impression to the nose here with graphite and wet slate, as well as plums, star anise and licorice. The palate has a very plush, peppery and deeply fruited feel with such intensity and depth to the dark plums and blackberries. Slate and pepper to close. Good depth. Try from 2024.