2017 Canon la Gaffeliere

The 2017 Canon La Gaffelière is another highlight in this range from Stephan von Neipperg. Bright, floral and punchy, the 2017 impresses for its energy and drive. Dried rose petal, mint, sage, tobacco, cedar and licorice add pretty top notes to this highly nuanced, layered Saint-Émilion. The Cabernet Franc is so expressive here. Quite simply, the 2017 is a wine of pure and total finesse. Tasted two times.

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Canon la Gaffeliere comes roaring out of the glass with exuberant notes of baked blackberries, blueberry compote and redcurrant jelly plus hints of forest floor, dried roses and cedar chest with a waft of fallen leaves. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has fantastic density with a firm frame of finely grained tannins and tons of freshness, finishing with lingering layers of bright, energetic fruit.

The 2017 Canon-la-Gaffelière is a wine that, when examined it out of barrel I felt suffered from frost damage. Now in bottle, I still feel that the aromatics lack the flair and joie-de-vivre associated with this Saint-Émilion, coming across reticent and missing some punch. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fresh and vibrant, perhaps more so when I tasted out of barrel. I feel this Saint-Émilion has improved since its bottling in May 2019, although I uphold the view that it lacks the complexity and intensity of the best vintages. But hey, you can’t win ‘em all.