2017 Pensees de Lafleur

Coming from a unique vein of clay soils that runs at a diagonal through the Lafleur vineyard, the 2017 Pensées de Lafleur is a rough blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc (it was more Merlot-dominated in the past), and since 1999 has always come from the same vines in the vintage. It’s a gorgeous wine in its own right, offering a deep ruby/purple color, loads of violets, black raspberries and floral nuances, medium to full-bodied richness, and ultra-fine tannin. It shows the hallmark elegance and texture of the estate and will be drinkable in 3-4 years and keep for 10-15 years.

The 1,500 candles in the vineyards (as with Petrus and VCC) were effective against the frost here, and as with much of the region the water stress was causing concern until rain at the end of June, which got everything growing again. The dry July and August saw no extreme temperatures, certainly more moderate than 2015, and the picking took place over two periods, with the Merlot on 16 September and the Cabernet Franc on 29 September. Those bouncy tannins are really defined, and this is a fairly serious take on Les Pensées de Lafleur, with accentuated power and tension that comes from its 0.69ha of clay soils (compared to the gravels elsewhere in the 4.58ha vineyard). Good persistency, and lovely floral edging.

17/20 - Deep crimson. Some violet on the nose and deep and long on the palate. Less charm and more depth than in previous vintages. But opens up to red fruit. Chewy chocolate texture and a delicious hint of spice – nutmeg? – on the mid palate. Caressing depth of tannin texture. Long as well as deep. (JH)