2017 Troplong Mondot

Aymeric de Gironde arrived here from Cos d'Estournel in September 2017, and he is clearly intending to make his mark. To get things started, they have brought the harvest dates forward (particularly on the Butte de Mondot, where drainage in recent years has stopped that clay mound being as cool as it once was). They have also stopped carrying out malolactic in new oak and brought the level of new oak down to 65% from 90%. They have a new consultant in the form of Thomas Duclos - this is surely his year - and carried out the blending before ageing in barrel, in a nod to Aymeric's left bank experience. Very little here was affected by the frost, giving a yield of 45hl/ha, 95% used for the grand vin. This is a terroir that doesn't need to be dressed up, as I have said several times in the past, and Aymeric is taking what had already begun under Xavier Parrente to the next level. This is one of the few wines to really make your heart race in 2017, with its blueberry and cool, black fruit notes with zippy minerality and a juicy, slightly saline finish. There is plenty of power, but it's contained, and the fruit is almost surprising in its purity and direction - it makes everyone around the table start talking. This is an extremely surprising 2017, one that I absolutely recommend without hesitation.

Black core with deep purple rim. Smells ripe, almost a little raisiny, rich in purple fruit. Firm tannins but it does have freshness on the finish. Chewy, dense, with the oak well integrated. Still in a very ripe style. (JH)

Troplong Mondot saw hardly any frost—less than 10%. The 2017 Troplong Mondot is blended of 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Very deep purple-black in color, it offers up a cedar chest, cinnamon stick and cloves-laced nose with a core of crème de cassis, blackberry compote and preserved plums plus wafts of licorice, violets and sandalwood. Full-bodied, concentrated and sporting a firm frame of velvety tannins, it has a lively line lifting the densely packed fruit, finishing long and on a compelling savory note.