2014 Colome Altura Maxima Malbec

(from vines at 10,200 feet above sea level, on soil rich in calcaire and granite): Saturated dark ruby. Superripe, even slightly porty aromas of black cherry, beefsteak tomato, roasted plum and chocolate. Extremely dense and bulletproof, with a distinctly roasted quality to its fruit that's countered by surprising acidity. I suspect this wine will need another five years of bottle aging to harmonize. Finishes with exotic mocha and stewed tomato notes, a mounting medicinal quality and strong building tannins. Like a few past vintages of this one-off, reportedly from the highest vineyard in the world, this Malbec is just this side of too much. But 24 hours in the recorked bottle brought more freshness and focus, not less, with dark berries rising to the surface, and I raised my score. Very dense but not heavy.