2016 Condrieu Coteaux de Vernon

Lastly, the 2016 Condrieu Coteau de Vernon is cut from the same cloth yet has more density and length. Just about perfection in a glass with its salty sea breeze, citrus zest, tangerine, and pit fruits, this medium to full-bodied Condrieu hits the palate with incredible purity of fruit, integrated acidity, and perfect balance. It shows the balance, focus, and purity that’s the hallmark of the 2016 vintage in Condrieu. It’s a heavenly Condrieu I wish every reader could taste. At the top of the hierarchy of Condrieu, Domaine Vernay has been run by Christine Vernay since 1997, when she took over from her father, George Vernay. These wines go from strength to strength, and today she fashions an IGP Viognier, three Condrieu, an IGP Syrah, a handful Saint Joseph, and two Côte Rôties. The majority of the 2015s were reviewed last year, so this report focuses primarily on her 2016s. Christine commented that the vintage started slowly with a rainy, cold spring, but quickly warmed going into summer and early fall, with beautiful weather at the end of the year. I was able to taste two 2017s, and while a hot, more challenging vintage, she appears to have handled the year with ease, and the wines are upfront, perfumed, and sexy, yet also pure.

Nearly always one of the top wines of the appellation, the 2016 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon, from vines planted in 1936 and 1960, doesn't disappoint. Aged in 25% new oak, it does show hints of toast and mocha but also incredible floral and spice aromas. Apricot and pineapple fruit flood the medium to full-bodied palate yet never seem heavy despite a sensation of silken richness. It has a wonderfully succulent texture married to tremendous focus and length. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent results.

Pale yellow-gold. Powerful, mineral-accented aromas of fresh pear, white peach, honey and jasmine pick up vibrant orange zest and saffron accents as the wine opens up. Silky and broad on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors energized by a jolt of juicy acidity and a smoky mineral note. Shows superb power and mineral thrust on the penetrating, extremely long finish, which leaves behind suggestions of bitter orange pith and iodine.