2010 Brunello di Montalcino

Dense ruby. Flirtatious, well-melded nose already. Beautiful balance on the palate with some tannins kept in reserve. Lightly dusty on the finish but all in all lots of pleasure. (JR)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is striking. Beams of supporting tannin provide a firm backbone of structure as this deeply expressive Brunello shows off its personality. Savory herbs, dark red cherry, lavender, smoke and licorice open up in the glass, adding considerable layers of complexity. The tannins could use another few years to soften, but there is a lot to like here.

Simone Bilorsi's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino exhibits a dark garnet color and little light penetration. Fornacina has been using organic farming methods since 2004 and the pureness of the fruit does come through in this classic vintage. Ash, smoke and dried fruit lift from the glass to reveal softer tones of spice, licorice and grilled herb at the back. This wine already shows signs of tar and black tar that hint at the beginnings of bottle evolution. Otherwise, the delivers is very smooth and silky and the wine boasts fresh acidity to keep it lively. The finish is long and rich.