2015 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Trockenbeerenauslese

Dramatically divergent in character from the corresponding Juffer, but in a manner already familiar from comparing the corresponding Spätlesen, this elixir (tasted from tank shortly before a fall 2016 bottling) is more viscous and pulls in a tropical direction, smelling and tasting of mango, mirabelle preserves and glazed pineapple slathered in chestnut honey and salted caramel. Buoyant yet expansive, its mouth-coating finish conveys soothing persistence and layered profundity of flavor but without the animation or mouthwatering minerality projected by the Juffer. It would be an amazing experience to compare the two in 20 or 30 years, when they have “grown up.” Incidentally, this was picked at only 10 more degrees of Oechsle than the Juffer, but still under 200. “This striving after world records is senseless,” remarked Oliver Haag. “[Geisenheim guru Professor Gerhard] Troost was wise when he opined that anything over 200 or 220 is just too thick. Basically, you lose any finesse at that point.”