2014 Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
The 2014 (Forster) Pechstein GG opens pure and fresh like a mature Champagne but is pretty austere and closed on the nose. Intense but still austere and rough on the palate, this is a charming Pechstein with a pretty bitter and astringent finish. Tasted in Deidesheim in December 2019.
Critic scores
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Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Hints of toasted wheat vie for attention with concentrated, high-toned green herbs and pungent citrus rinds, resulting in a nose-flaring, eye-watering aromatic display. This comes to the palate no less forcefully than it addresses the nose, featuring zesty lemon and grapefruit, marjoram and oregano, milled grains and black pepper. Firm in feel but with palpable lees buffering, it finishes with downright aggressive grip, its intensity of herbal essences glowing, its citricity cheek-pinching, and its piquancy throat-grabbing.
Some might call the combination of wet earthy and herbaceous aromas an acquired scent, but I find it very attractive in its idiosyncrasy. Crunchy green fruit and herbaceous elements make quite an impact on the palate, and a gentle sweet note on the tip of the tongue is a conciliatory gesture as herbaceous and earthy mineral notions begin to get a grip. It also appears to rely on a smidgeon of barrique to add to its already impressive substance and potential. (MS)
Similar fruit quality to their Ungeheuer – almost tropical. Creamy mouthfeel then a leesy texture that gives great persistence. It sort of reminds me of top Godello, and has the same sea salt minerality. Magnificent. (RH)