2010 Rioja Gran Reserva

(fermented in concrete tanks, followed by malolactic fermentation in new French oak barrels; aged for two years in new and used barrels, 60 percent of them French and 40 percent American; and then held in bottle for at least three years prior to being released) Brilliant ruby. An expansive, highly perfumed nose displays an array of ripe red fruits and pungent flowers, along with oak spice, vanilla and pipe tobacco overtones. Juicy and concentrated on the palate, offering intense, smoke-laced black raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and a suave rose pastille nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Finishes smooth, sweet and quite long, with slow-building tannins that fold smoothly into the sweet fruit. This is a distinctly graceful and seductive expression for this vintage.

Bottled only in magnum (and larger sizes), the 2010 Gran Reserva is produced with grapes from their oldest vineyards as a classic blend of Tempranillo, 15% Graciano, 12% Garnacha and a pinch of Viura; the grapes were fermented in cement vats with malolactic in barrel and the wine underwent an élevage in used French (60%) and American oak barrels for three years, followed by another three years in bottle. It has a very spicy nose with tantalizing aromas reminiscent of curry and some red and black fruit, very clean and precise. It develops some faint lactic notes spiced up with cinnamon. The palate is focused and polished, with great balance (14.4% alcohol and a 3.3 pH), great acidity and volume. This is the best of the wines I tasted from Contino in this sitting. 3,261 magnums.