NV The Half Century Blend Batch 1 45.5%

This blend is over 50 years old and contains malt and grain whiskies distilled before the ‘whisky boom’ of the late 1960s and 1970s – before the shift towards increased yields, they say. In a way this blend honours less efficient barley strains, floor maltings, inefficient yeasts, lenghty fermentation times and direct-fired stills. Nose: lovely buttery apple aromas, alongside polished furniture and warm leathery notes. A little guava. The old grain whisky isn’t hidden here, the marzipan / vanilla combination is clear. A little maple syrup, some rummy notes. Hints of smoky cedar in the background. Cinnamon. Tobacco. Excellent. Mouth: oh wow. I was expecting a slightly thin, wood-driven profile, with lots of spices. Instead this is surprisingly thick and surprisingly fruity. Subtle tropical fruits à la BenRiach (pink grapefruit, guava, a slight hints of passion fruits). Some bourbon-like leather and vanilla cream. Chocolate and brown sugar. Toffee apples and honey. Very gentle herbal notes. Hints of kirsch maybe. Really great. Finish: long, just a tad drier, with tobacco notes, walnuts, but also gingerbread and lingering fruits. The (old) grain whisky is showing on the nose, but the old malt is talking on the palate. Juicy fruits (including some tropical hints). A great mash-up really. Expensive, but also very impressive. Oct 2016, www.whiskynotes.be

A devilish bottling, since the price is of €666 at time of writing - you never know with the Pound these days - and since its age is of ‘more than fifty years’. What, a 50 yo blend and no moulded crystal, no silver-plated stag’s head, and no embroidered tartan pouch? There is a little laxness in Scotch these days, don’t you agree… Colour: gold. Nose: burst with both orchard and tropical fruits at first nosing, ala old Benriach, with guavas and plums, and gets then rather more cake-y, nutty, praline-like, with pastries and maple syrup. There’s also a grassiness that keeps it relatively dry, around apple peelings and autumn leaves. A little wax polish as well. Deep in the background, notes of coconut, possibly from the old grain they must have been using. Mouth: ultra-sexy, ueber-fruity, luscious, yet never pushy, with notes of old bourbon and old rum, then dried apricots and, yet again, guavas. Juicy ripe nectarines. Finish: medium, still fresh and very lively, with a soft oakiness that never gets drying or too tea-ish. Peaches cooked in honey sauce? A wee Irish side. Pure Pot Still ala old Redbreast – BTW we’ll soon try a 25 yo Redbreast, stay tuned. Comments: more proof that whisky can be immortal. And yet, you see, age does matter. Oct 2016, www.whiskyfun.com