2013 Lalama Ribeira Sacra

A champion in quality-to-price ratio, the red 2013 Lalama wants to replicate the traditional wine produced as a field blend that is mostly Mencía with some 10% a myriad other varieties—Brancellao, Mouratón, Sousón and Garnacha Tintorera—from many different vineyards on different soils, altitudes and expositions. The destemmed and crushed grapes fermented in 2,500-, 3,500 and 4,500-liter oak vats with indigenous yeasts followed by malolactic in 300-liter barriques where it was kept for 13 months followed by a further seven months in oak vat. It has an explosive and captivating nose, an explosion of wild berries and herbs, with just a creamy touch and some spices. It's redolent of acid berries, with an electric-like sensation in the palate revealing great freshness, focused flavors, very fine tannins and a clean, long and refreshing finish. This is plain delicious, the best Lalama I remember. 65,000 bottles produced. This combines quality, price and availability from a region where wines tend to be produced in small quantities. It's approachable and ready but should be long lived.

Mostly Mencía, fermented and then 12 months in concrete eggs. Greyish crimson. Tight, crunchy dark fruit. Expressive and upfront but lingers nicely. Juicy finish. (JH)

The 2013 Lalama blends 85% Mencía, 8% Brancellao and 7% other grapes from Val do Bibei, Ribeira Sacra. Dark garnet in hue and slightly muted, it reflects its age with tertiary aromas, balsamic hints, forest floor, vine flower and herbal traces. Light-bodied, earthy and silky, it shows maturity from a cool, wet year. The 2013 is still evolving toward its peak.