2015 Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot

Inky, bright-rimmed ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented cassis and blackberry scents are complicated by suggestions of roasted coffee, incense, potpourri and pipe tobacco. Broad and fleshy on the palate, offering alluringly sweet cherry, dark berry liqueur and floral pastille flavors that slowly tighten up on the back half. Becomes more energetic with air. The cherry, floral and spice notes return on the strikingly long, gently tannic and penetrating finish. Two-thirds of the oak here, all of it French, was new.

The 2015 Diana Madeline from Cullens Wines comes from 50-year-old biodynamically grown vines cultivated on granite/sandy soils. Here the Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 11% Merlot, 1% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc. The aromatics take a little while to coalesce, offering a mixture of red and black fruit, undergrowth and touches of white mint. I appreciate the pliancy of the tannins, the extremely well-judged acidity and the harmonious, understated finish. Hints of wild mint and thyme linger on the aftertaste. There is a serious intellectual aspect to this wonderful Cabernet that will give pleasure over the next 25–30 years.

Screwcap for all markets. Houghton clone planted, ungrafted, on gravel/granite/sand around 1971. Certified organic and biodynamic. Aged in oak for 17 months. Picked 17 February to 7 March. Funnily enough, although we have tasting notes on 14 or 15 vintages of this wine, we don't have one of 2015 – until now. Deep garnet colour with some age at the rim. Mmm, lovely balsam fragrance and sweet fruit. Real depth and savour to this bone-dry wine with its kick of salinity on the end. Very sophisticated and nuanced. Persistent too. Just starting to be approachable. Offered very much on its own terms. Leaves a lovely pure imprint on the palate. (JR)