2013 Barolo Monvigliero
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Tasting notes
A medium ruby hue, the 2013 Barolo Monvigliero offers up savory aromas of black olive, cinnamon, and grenadine. Medium-bodied and floral throughout, it has refined tannins and is graceful and elegant, with a stony mouthfeel. It is in a beautiful place for drinking now or over the coming ten or so years. Based in Verduno, Fabio Burlotto leads the estate named after his great-great-grandfather. The holdings currently consist of 17 hectares in total, predominantly in Verduno, and a small portion outside of the commune with parcels in Cannubi (Valletta) in Barolo and most recently in Castelletto in Monforte d’Alba. In 2018, he produced his first vintage from 50-year-old vines at the higher part of their parcel in Castelletto, while the lower section was replanted and will see its first harvest this year. Although anything is possible, the vision at the moment is that this fruit will become a part of their Classic Barolo. Aclivi is a selection of the best part of each vineyard site, with the traditional blended style of Barolo in mind, and stands in as a substitute for a Riserva bottling. Usually, the grapes are destemmed for the Aclivi, while the Monvigliero is fermented with whole clusters. Historically, Fabio’s grandfather was fermenting all of his Barolo with whole clusters before 1967. When his father took over after he died in 1968, he began destemming the grapes until the 1982 vintage, when they moved back to utilizing whole clusters for the Monvigliero, which Fabio continues to this day. There is a great commitment and dedication to the other varietals of the region, with only half of the total production being Nebbiolo and the remaining half Dolcetto, Barbera, Freisa, Pelaverga, and Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation for the Barolo occurs in 20-year-old open-top French oak containers, with some punching down, but generally a gentle approach. In the cellar, they utilize 30-year-old large French oak casks, and when barrels need to be replaced, only Barbera or Langhe Nebbiolo will go into the new barrels on occasion. The majority of the wines in this report were tasted at the winery with Fabio in March of 2023. The style is marked by lift and energy, with the majority offering an outstanding bouquet of aromatics. They tend to lean toward a Burgundian aesthetic in that they are highly expressive and offer fantastic mineral texture in a medium frame. The indigenous grapes are not to be missed and offer some of the best-hidden gems at an insane value when and if you can find them. Though the US is certainly a major market for wines, Fabio is uniquely committed to having a substantial proportion of his wines distributed in Italy, and I personally intend to have the great fortune to enjoy them while abroad.
Critic scores
Average Score
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The 2013 Barolo Monvigliero is indeed a special wine that excels in terms of elegance and ethereal momentum. It's impossible to ignore its charm and seductive powers. This wine was released one year ago, but the folks at Comm. G.B. Burlotto preferred not to send samples for review at that time. I was able to taste this beautiful wine during my visit to the estate this year. This vintage of Monvigliero glides smooth and high over the senses, imparting fine notes of cassis, wild berry and anise seed. There is a lasting note of white truffle with tangy ginger and rhubarb. The wine offers volume and largess in the mouth with substantial textural fiber. The bright acidity adds energy and zest to the finish. This wine dances with the grace and muscle of a centerstage ballerina.
Burlotto's 2013 Barolo Monvigliero is simply magnificent. In many vintages, a young Monvigliero can come across as disjointed, especially in the aromatics and the pungent, savory notes can be overpowering. Not in 2013. All the elements are in perfect balance. A wine of soaring aromatic intensity, pedigree and class, the 2013 is thrilling from the very first taste. Rose petal, lavender, violet, spice, orange peel, white pepper and cinnamon are some of the many notes that infuse the super-expressive finish. All of Burlotto's 2013 Barolos are exceptional. But the Monvigliero, well, it enters the realm of the deeply moving. It is a wine that will leave readers weak at the knees. Feb 2017, www.vinous.com