2016 Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont

A star of Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley, Domaine Huët was founded in 1928; the Hwang family bought it from the Huëts in 2003. The domaine was one of the early proponents of biodynamics in the region, converting in 1990. The estate mainly comprises three vineyards: Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont and Clos du Bourg. The distinct terroir of Le Mont, with its clay and silex soils, yields fresh, minerally wines. The demi-sec has 20 grams per liter of residual sugar, and winemaker Jean-Bernard Berthomé ages the wine half in demi-muid and half in stainless-steel tanks for six months. This tilts toward the flattering side of off-dry, showing a plump feel to the core of creamed pear, white peach and yellow apple fruit. Lovely verbena, honeysuckle and mineral accents keep this balanced and driven, with a long finish that lets the fruit echo. Sep 2017, www.winespectator.com, Drink: 2017-2032

Pebbly silex and green clay is probably the most exciting soil for the off-dry style of Huet's Le Mont Chenin Blanc. The 2016 Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec is a very good example. It opens with a clear, precise and smoky nose of crushed stones whereas the tropical fruit aromas remain discreet in the background. On the palate, this is an enormously pure, salty-piquant and delicate Vouvray of remarkable class and finesse. The wine has intensity, tension, lingering mineral expression and a stimulatingly pure, finessed and salty finish. Great length. This is not a big wine but a gorgeous one with a long life ahead. Tasted February 2018. Feb 2018, www.robertparker.com