2014 Appellation Gualtallary Malbec
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Tasting notes
From the loamy soils of Gualtallary. 1,300 m. The soil presents 3% of clay in the fine matrix with limestone covered in pebbles and gravels that occupy 50–60% of the soil volume, with a high percentage of free calcium carbonate in the profile. The grapes go through a double selection process and are released by gravity into small concrete containers. The alcoholic fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts at 24 ºC for 15 days. In order to maintain a careful, gentle handling, pumping is not used; the cap is rotated by manual pigeage throughout the fermentation. Aged 18 months in 3,500-litre untoasted foudres. pH 3.8. Dark and dusty/rocky on the nose. Super-pure dark fruit. This lovely dusty nose. Really chalky in the texture, bone dry and super-fresh. Mouth-watering freshness despite highish pH. Long. (JH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Bright medium ruby. Musky dark berries, molten chocolate, leather, meat and espresso on the nose, lifted by a touch of violet florality; this struck me as a bit like Syrah from the northern Rhône. Very suave, fine-grained, dry wine with insidious intensity and nuance--not to mention lift--to its dark fruit and mineral flavors. Classically dry in an Old World style, showing a sexy mocha reduction today and no excess weight. Finishes with horizontal, fine-grained tannins and outstanding length. This is not quite as tightly wound as the 2013 version last year, but no complaints here! Finishes with dusty tannins and chalky suggestions. Not thick or fleshy wine, just a superb Malbec of terroir. In fact, I wonder if I'm underrating it. This wonderfully concentrated, layered wine finishes extremely long, with fine-grained tannins. (July 2017)
Needs more time before release than the Altamira. Caliche soils (in which the soil particles have been cemented together by calcium carbonate) with much high er saturation of limestone available to the vine. 5% active lime. Botti ageing. Very dark core, black. A hint of smoky reduction. Much deeper in texture and a little fuller in the mouth than the Altamira 2015 but still with the finesse of rocky dark fruit. Firmer and less chalky, firmer texture. 'Higher voltage.' Intense, chewy and freshly elegant. A baby. (JH)
The other appellation Malbec comes from the hottest place (not in temperature, but in terms of market demand) in the Valle de Uco, where the grapes for the 2014 Malbec Appellation Gualtallary are grown. This is significantly cheaper than most wines of this quality. I was a little disappointed with the performance of this wine in 2013 and was looking forward to 2014. The soils here are rich in calcium carbonate, but in the shape of caliche (a kind of marl with plenty of chalky material, iron and clay), which provide for more tannic wines. The destemmed grapes fermented in small concrete vats with indigenous yeasts without the use of any pumps. The wine matured in used, untoasted 3,500-liter French oak foudres for a period of some 18 months. It feels fresher, perhaps a little herbal and definitely more ethereal than the Altamira. Yes, it's more tannic, because the tannins are abundant, but they feel very fine-grained. This year I favor Gualtallary over Altamira. There is more complexity here. 9,333 bottles produced and filled after a light filtration in January 2016.