2016 Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese

The site-typical nose delivers a head-turningly fragrant rush of buddleia and heliotrope, while anticipating the juicy, piquant, crunchy fresh red raspberry, pit-inflected white peach and lime that dominate a silken, almost creamy, yet animatingly bright palate. Inner-mouth perfume rises seductively as fresh ginger adds incisive invigoration and an influx of quince reinforces the sense of richness. On one level, the finish is penetratingly bright and vibrantly animating, preserving invigoratingly piquant hints of seeds and pits. Yet simultaneously it seems to float with near-endless suspension into the ether, subtly echoing the complexities that went before and adding a mouthwatering hint of salinity.

There's a touch of spice here, just a hint at first, plus juicy, succulent lemon and clementine purity of fruit. Immaculate purity and there's beauty in its persistence. Crisp and sustained. GV (JH)

Fine floral notes mingle with aromas of white fruit and dusty mineral notions, a delicate scent of forest honey whispering promises of sweet delight. The palate is seduced by the soft expression of a ripe, juicy cocktail of melon, peach and nectarine, pink grapefruit and mandarin delivering zest and vibrancy, the generous sweetness of all this fruit well balanced by the freshness of the lively acidity and a stony mineral accent. (MS)