2015 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier

In this 2015 Shiraz Viognier, the 30% whole-bunch component is evident on the nose, and it comes in the shape of tobacco leaf and bay leaf. It appears right before the cocoa nib, the licorice root, the star anise and the black tea, beckoning you in for a sip. Done. In the mouth, the wine is chewy and ethereal at once. The tannins are pumice-stone fine, very tightly knit and obliterated into the fruit. They contain the fruit flavors and allow them to sail over the palate into the long finish. As per usual, there is a 5.5% Viognier inclusion, and the wine spent slightly less time in oak than the neighboring 2019 tasted alongside—12 months in tight grain French oak barriques, 35% new. The 14.3% alcohol sits it squarely plum in the lineup. Excellent. The picture of balance.

Two-thousand fifteen is an incredibly impressive vintage for the Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier that is still tight and only hints at its trajectory. Thanks to the quality of the season, a higher proportion of whole bunches than usual sees layers of meat and five-spice sitting comfortably with a rich bed of focused blackberry fruits, continually adding layers as it sits in the glass. Deliciously textured, a powerful core of fruit is wrapped up in firm but integrated tannins which drive a long, refined finish. Already drinking beautifully, there is no doubt that this vintage has a long way to travel.

Beetroot, black cherry, meat and spice – such clarity and purity. Super fragrance then a wonderful bitter juniper quality here. The mix of vegetal flavours, fruit ripeness and savoury character is extraordinary. (RH)