2016 Scharzhofberger Kabinett

A penetrating nose features gooseberry, cassis, apricot and apple, and suggestions of seeds and pits – as well as a nettle-like prickle – lend invigorating crunch and piquancy to the brightly animating, cheek-scouring acidity that emerges on the palate. But even as you feel the impact of the acids, there is a sheer juiciness that keeps them from turning uncomfortably severe. And the penetrating finish here, predictably, delivers a decisive impression of wet stone and displays admirable balance as regards sweetness. This sole “regular” Müller Kabinett of its vintage (there’s also an Alte Reben bottling) has plenty of cellar potential. And it makes up nearly half of this year’s combined Scharzhofberg and Braune Kupp production.

More marked by the herbal/smoky wild-ferment character than the von Hövel Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2016, a little peppery and that smoky reductive character but not without citrus fragrance under all that complexity. Juicy, gorgeously fruity on the palate. Rich and still so precise and utterly fresh. It is a great wine but commands such a high price now. (JH)

This is very clean and pure with an intense herbal-mineral quality that's beautifully complemented by the apple and berry notes. The finish has an Alpine meadow freshness that no other kabinett from this vintage I've tasted has, and that's the most exciting thing about it. Jun 2017, www.jamessuckling.com