2013 Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva

Fèlsina's 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia bristles with energy, with veins of underlying acidity that give the wine its focus and drive. Dark red cherry, plum, rose petal, herb and licorice are some of the signatures. Most of the Fèlsina Chianti Classicos are defined by their dark fruit and savory notes, but the Rancia is also wonderfully bright and lifted from start to finish while staying very much true to the house style. Today, the Rancia gives the impression it will unwind at a glacial pace. I imagine most bottles of the 2013 will be drunk before the wine truly enters its prime.

Castelnuovo Berardenga. 100% Sangiovese. Deep ruby with bright orange tinges. Perfumed cherry sherbet. Big, big tannins taming rich-yet-fresh fruit. Needs plenty of age. (WS)

Here is another highlight of the vintage. The 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is a dark, moody and sophisticated wine. It does not reveal itself immediately or in any obvious way. Instead, it doses out its intensity in careful measurements. The whole performance is seductive to say the least. That slow momentum leads to dark cherry with spice, grilled herb, wet earth and dried rose. Felsina's Riserva Rancia is a very elegant wine, both on the nose and in the mouth.