2005 Echezeaux du Dessus

From forty year-old vines in the prime “des Dessus” section bordering Grands-Echezeaux, Trembaly’s 2005 Echezeaux displays aromas of cooked ginger, black currant, rhubarb, wood smoke, as well as caramel and toast (from the two of three barrels here that are new). Glycerine-rich and sweetly-fruited in the mouth though preserving both a tart and a caramelized edge, this finishes with roasted meatiness, smoldering, toasty smokiness, and fruit liqueur intensity, but not the purity, precision, or nuance of the best Trembley wines. I would happily make allowances for its having been in bottle only two weeks, although I’m not sure I detect any characteristics I would trace to sulfuring or bottle shock. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.