NV Quinta das Carvalhas Memorias 19th C Tawny Port

The NV Very Old Tawny Port Cask 1900 is a field blend from old vines that comes with a bar-top cork and 152 grams of residual sugar, plus 21.5% alcohol. The price is for a half bottle. This is sort of a Colheita, a single-harvest Tawny, but since it was never registered, it cannot be listed as a Colheita. Very mature, this is still rather fresh for its age. It shows off bite on the finish, spice and plenty of molasses. Its texture is the result of concentration, making it seem rich, if in an understated way, as it sits on the tongue. Vibrant and lively, this has generally held well. On the nose, it is the oldest of the trio this issue, to be sure, but it still holds its own and seems decently balanced in most respects. There's a touch of alcohol obvious, especially on the nose, but it seems better handled than in its siblings. That aspect does get worse on the nose as this warms, though. It is still vivacious in a way many Ports this old are not. This is my favorite of the trio, not quite as rich as the 1927, but a better experience overall with a balanced demeanor. Its intriguing complexity is admirable too. It's not young, and there's plenty of seared treacle, but it shows relatively young for its age. Then, there's a big finish.

The NV Memorias 19th Century Tawny Port from Carvalhas, due to be released in April, 2015, was blended by winemaker Jorge Moreira in 2010, but at the time I tasted it was still not quite on the market. This preview look is worthwhile, though. A blend of vintages from 1867-1900, this is just beautiful. With a powerful, intense nose (the type of thing that makes old Tawnies so exceptional), it proceeds to touch all the bases. Crisp, fresh and invigorating on the palate, it also finishes with a certain unctuous, yet subtle feel. It lingers beautifully and it is just delicious for every moment that it lingers. This is not the biggest or most powerful, but it does exactly what you want old Tawnies to do. It is fine. The drinking window is just a suggestion. Assume that it is pretty much immortal, if it comes with a reliable cork. There were just 75 cases scheduled to be produced. Note: This Port has been in the cellars of Real Companhia Velha for 55 years. It was previously kept at the original cellars of Port shippers Miguel Sousa Guedes & Irmãos (the owners of Quinta das Carvalhas at that time), which were taken over in 1953 by Manuel da Silva Reis, owner of Real Companhia Velha since 1960.

The NV Memorias 19th Century Tawny Port from Carvalhas, due to be released in April, 2015, was blended by winemaker Jorge Moreira in 2010, but at the time I tasted it was still not quite on the market. This preview look is worthwhile, though. A blend of vintages from 1867-1900, this is just beautiful. With a powerful, intense nose (the type of thing that makes old Tawnies so exceptional), it proceeds to touch all the bases. Crisp, fresh and invigorating on the palate, it also finishes with a certain unctuous, yet subtle feel. It lingers beautifully and it is just delicious for every moment that it lingers. This is not the biggest or most powerful, but it does exactly what you want old Tawnies to do. It is fine. The drinking window is just a suggestion. Assume that it is pretty much immortal, if it comes with a reliable cork. There were just 75 cases scheduled to be produced. Note: This Port has been in the cellars of Real Companhia Velha for 55 years. It was previously kept at the original cellars of Port shippers Miguel Sousa Guedes & Irmãos (the owners of Quinta das Carvalhas at that time), which were taken over in 1953 by Manuel da Silva Reis, owner of Real Companhia Velha since 1960. Apr 2015, www.roberparker.com, Drink: 2015-2065