2013 Hermitage Blanc Ex Voto
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The current release (there’s no 2014 Ex Voto Blanc), the 2013 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc continues to show brilliantly. Possessing a medium gold color and vibrant notes of caramelized citrus, toasted nuts, honeysuckle, wood smoke, and brioche, it has a huge, full-bodied profile, perfect balance, remarkable freshness, and a great finish. It’s a quintessential Hermitage Blanc to drink over the coming 15+ years. Due to the timing of my visit (which was earlier than normal), I wasn’t able to taste a full lineup from Guigal. Nevertheless, even an abbreviated lineup from Guigal consists of more wines than just about every other producer I taste with. Looking at the 2016s, the white wines, especially from Condrieu, are brilliant and show the more fresh, vibrant style of this cooler, late vintage. The reds are very classic in style across the board. I’ll taste these again, mostly from barrel, next year as well, but this is certainly an excellent vintage. The 2015s, as I’ve written more than once now, are truly spectacular, and after tasting these wines multiple times from barrel now, I completely understand why Marcel Guigal would declare this the greatest vintage of his lifetime. These are rich, voluptuous, massive wines I think will represent a modern-day version of 1978. The 2014s continue to improve every time I taste them, which is common for this estate. Similar, perhaps, to a toned down 2012, these are charming, supple, elegant wines that are vastly more approachable than the 2013s. Lastly, the 2013s from bottle showed the backward, dark, mineral-laced profile of the vintage. They’re beautifully concentrated and terrific wines, yet the cellar is going to be your friend.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Jeb Dunnuck
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(aged for 30 months in all new oak barrels) Brilliant yellow. A powerful, seductively perfumed bouquet evokes poached pear, peach nectar, honey, smoky lees and sweet butter. Offers fleshy, palate-staining orchard and pit fruit and buttery brioche and honeysuckle flavors, plus a vanilla note that emerges stealthily on the back half. Finishes with superb focus and mineral-driven persistence, leaving a suave floral note behind.
The 2013 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a head-turner that offers sensational notes of buttered stone fruits, charcoal, toasted bread, toasted nuts and freshly crushed rocks. Take Marsanne and filter it through a bed of rocks, and you’d have an idea of what this beauty tastes like. Full-bodied, thick, unctuous and concentrated, it’s certainly one of the most exciting dry whites coming from the Northern Rhône Valley today.
The 2013 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a head-turner that offers sensational notes of buttered stone fruits, charcoal, toasted bread, toasted nuts and freshly crushed rocks. Take Marsanne and filter it through a bed of rocks, and you’d have an idea of what this beauty tastes like. Full-bodied, thick, unctuous and concentrated, it’s certainly one of the most exciting dry whites coming from the Northern Rhone Valley today. Dec 2016, www.robertparker.com