2015 Batard Montrachet

(the last vintage for this wine, as the estate pulled up these degenerating old vines after the harvest): Pale yellow with green reflections. Captivating floral perfume to the aromas of white peach and noble herbs. The palate conveys an almost glyceral thickness in the style of the year but its savory umami character gives it finesse and notes of herbs and flowers provide lift. Seems much less exotic in bottle than it was in barrel last year but still in a rather powerful style. This plush, fat, nicely balanced Bâtard finishes with lovely aromatic freshness.

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a valedictory wine as the 90-year-old vines were pulled up after the fruit was picked (see producer introduction). You know, it actually surpasses the Chevalier-Montrachet in terms of mineralité and complexity, very refined with hints of orange blossom developing with time. The palate is very well balanced with a keen line of acidity, good tension and particular fine salinity here that urges you back for another sip. There is just a barrel and a half of this Bâtard-Montrachet so grab one now because it will not reappear for a long time.

(the estate pulled up these very old, degenerating vines, the source of so many great bottlings in the past, after the 2015 harvest; just 2-1/2 barrels were produced in '15 owing to millerandage ): Bright pale yellow. Aromas of pineapple and white pepper show more lift than those of the Chevalier-Montrachet. Sweet, rich and rather suave, conveying an exotic ripeness to the flavors of pineapple and lichee. Displays more grip than the Chevalier-Montrachet but also finishes a bit edgy and warm.