2015 Volnay Clos des Ducs

(13.2% alcohol; two of the seven barrels were new): Medium red. Ineffable high-pitched perfume of crushed raspberry, red cherry and blood orange. Boasts compelling richness and depth of fruit, but a distinctly red quality in spite of its youthfully medicinal character. A wine of great sucrosité and early balance, this spectacular Volnay maintains its outstanding fullness and breadth through an almost endless finish. With its noble tannins, savory minerality and astonishing lightness of being, this is an essence of Pinot Noir. It would appear to possess the energy for a 30-year life span. One of the most spectacular young Volnays I've ever tasted.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs has what you might describe as an "aristocratic" bouquet, one that is distant and almost aloof at first and yet warming to you in its presence, revealing superb mineralité and tension. The palate is medium-bodied with thickset, rather rigid tannin that lend this body and density, the fruit darker and perhaps more masculine than Lafarge's Volnay Pitures and Mitans. It delivers a very focused, rather grippy finish and wonderful persistence. This has long-term prospects and should be reserved for those with patience or children with a penchant for seriously good Volnay.

Old calcaire soils and quite brown. Deep gravel on top of calcaire. Introvert nose with masses of intensity and sinew. Real concentration and sinew . What power. So tempting to drink now but one really shouldn’t. Very special. Very long. (JR)