2015 Nuits St Georges Aux Murgers

(13.5% natural alcohol, the highest of these 2015s; finished its malolactic fermentation in July, like the Aux Thorey; from 70-year-old vines, vs. 63 for the Aux Thorey): Good dark red. Crushed blackberry and blueberry plus a hint of bitter chocolate on the nose. Densely packed but an element of juicy, saline minerality gives the wine a light touch; not at all a sweet style and less harmonious today than the Thorey. This sappy, savory premier cru is showing more smoky minerals and earth than primary fruit but is very much a wine for the cellar. Firmly tannic on the back end.

The 2015 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers has a more expressive bouquet than the Aux Thorey, essentially demonstrating more Pinoté and terroir expression. The palate is showing a little more oakiness at the moment, although there is sufficient fruit to soak that up in time. There is good depth here, a suppleness to the texture with candied orange peel and a touch of cassis towards the caressing finish. Whilst the Aux Thorey is more immediately pleasurable, the Aux Murgers conveys the propitious manner of this vineyard, and has greater long-term potential.

70-year-old vines. Nicely integrated but not quite as concentrated as the Thorey. Just a little more austere. Some powdery texture. Crunchy, pinched finish. Strong freshness on the end. (JR)