2006 Meursault En La Barre

The Jobard 2006 Meursault La Barre smells of pear nectar, peony, and pralines. Lush and very obviously ripe on the palate – just as the nose led one to anticipate – this incorporates deep notes of roasted nuts and malt, finishing broad, impressively long, and very slightly warm. This is as close to over-ripe in character as any Jobard wine I can ever recall. I would suggest drinking it young – unusual advice for a wine from this cellar – but perhaps the wine will yet make a fool of me. The 2005 tastes shockingly bright, almost tart when tasted soon after, though not lacking in spice or low tones. Remarkably, Antoine Jobard (who took over from his father in 2004) relates that he did not begin harvesting until the 23rd of September (two days later than in 2005), and while there is no negative botrytis tone in evidence, and he asserts that none of the wines exceeded 13.5% alcohol, this collection shows the effects of late harvest. Never bottled before 18 months (more often later, though not in the forward 2006 vintage) the Jobard wines were still in barrel when last I tasted them (hence the wider point spread). Every wine is given virtually identical elevage, including around 20% new wood; and none receive batonnage. “I’m guarding the classic style,” says Antoine Jobard, with reference to the wines that made his father’s long-standing reputation for refined, at times understated, and prodigiously age-worthy Meursault. The 2005s here took well over a year to ferment to dryness. Those I tasted from bottle easily eclipsed the corresponding 2006s. The Jobard 2004s are also very strong, and Antoine Jobard believes they will be for drinking after the 2005s (which in my estimation means well after the 2006s!) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also imported by Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400