2015 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques

Tasted blind, Jadot's 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques confirmed the seriousness it displayed earlier this year, unwinding with aeration to reveal a youthfully reserved bouquet of sweet red fruits, raw cocoa, rich soil and dried rose petal, framed by a judicious application of cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, reserved and concentrated, with fine-grained but firm structuring tannins, tangy acids and impressive length. This Clos Saint-Jacques is shutting down, so it's all about future potential, but its showing in this tasting suggested that when all is said and done, it may well be the Clos Saint-Jacques of the vintage.

(totally destemmed): Palish medium red. More subdued on the nose than the Estournelles Saint-Jacques but still with exhilarating blood orange lift to the raspberry aroma. Highly concentrated, silky, extremely youthful wine, combining outstanding breadth and inner-mouth perfume and lift. Its very intense, sharply delineated flavors of dark raspberry and crushed stone are given added punch and lift by urgent minerality. This compellingly horizontal, sappy wine finishes with utterly suave tannins and outstanding length, piquing the taste buds on the back end. Premier cru Burgundy does not get much better than this.